The University of California, Davis, has a long history of groundbreaking research that has significantly impacted the global wine industry.

Standing on the shoulders of giants

With the retirement of several key academics whose research in the areas of grapevine genetics, fermentation science, and sensory science has played a crucial role in the development and advancement of the modern American wine industry, the Department of Viticulture and Enology now has new leadership. In January 2024, Benjamen Montpetit began his tenure as the Marvin Sands Endowed Chair in the department, succeeding David Block, who spent nearly 13 years in the role.

Montpetit’s journey

Montpetit’s journey from studying biochemistry to assuming leadership of the world’s top wine-science depart­ment was a natural progression. After earning a Ph.D. from the University of British Columbia, he made his way to the University of California, Berkeley, for postdoctoral research in gene expression regulation using yeast species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

As a self-described foodie, Montpetit had already formed a deep personal connection to Vancouver’s multicultural restaurant scene, but it was a memo­rable glass of Navarro Riesling during a celebratory lunch with his wife at Chez Panisse that connected him to California’s wine culture.

Though he soon went back to Canada to spend the next four years at the University of Alberta in Edmonton exploring human disease mechanisms using yeast, Montpetit found the perfect opportunity to return to the Bay Area and join UC Davis as profes­ sor of yeast biology when renowned researcher Linda Bisson retired in 2016. He then served as vice chair of the department from 2021 to 2023 and was appointed the Richard M. Kunde Endowed Chair in Viticulture & Enology in late 2024 (a title he holds in addition to his other chairmanship).

Currently, Montpetit’s lab has two major areas of focus. One is the study of the genetics and origins of yeast in spontaneous fermentations in an attempt to create more efficient and site-driven wines using yeast strains that are unique to California. And the other is an examination of yeast as a model organism to inform biomedical sciences and human biology-research that according to Montpetit is funded by both the National Institutes of Health and the National Science Foundation.

During Montpetit’s tenure, the department has also focused on launching two new minors: a viticul­ ture and enology minor for STEM students and a wine business and science minor in partnership with the Department of Agricultural and Resource Economics.

His role as a professor includes instructing both undergraduate and graduate-level courses spanning topics from wine microbiology to production as well as the ever-popular spring seminar that brings industry guest speakers and alumni together with students. He also supports the student­ led Davis Enology & Viticulture Organization, which organizes free wine tastings and trips.

Following the passage of Senate Bill 918, a state law that UC Davis suc­cessfully championed, the university recently began selling wine to the public through Hilgard631, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit that makes it possible for the Department of Viticulture and Enology to sell student-made wine, with proceeds funding student scholars. The inaugural wines made by Montpetit’s students include a 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2024 Sauvignon Blanc made with grapes from Oakville Station, UC Davis’ research and teaching vineyard in the heart of Napa Valley.

Find Hildegard631

The winery sells Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Chardonnay, Petit Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon blends. The Hildegard631 Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5 % Cabernet Franc, 6 % Merlot, and 0.5% Petite Sirah is sourced from the Oakville AVA in Napa Valley. Described as a bold, classic expression of Oakville, the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon is powerful yet refined, with depth and aromatic complexity.

Aromas of blackberry, black cherry, and boysenberry are interwoven with notes of fresh roses, cassis, vanilla, and black pepper. Hints of dark chocolate, tobacco, and baking spices enrich and complete the bouquet. On the palate, dark fruits take center stage: plum, black currant, and black raspberry framed by silky tannins. Notes of bittersweet chocolate, espresso, and anise unfold alongside mocha, toasted cedar, and clove, revealing the influence of 22 months in medium toast French oak barrels. The finish is long and structured, with lingering spice, leather, and a touch of oak that speaks to its age worthiness and balance.

The wine sells for $125 a bottle and can be purchased from the Teaching and Research Winery, details at Hilgard631 – Wine