Decoding the Origins of Wine Aromas
If you detected the familiar aroma of coconut in a young Merlot wine, you might surmise that it was derived from barrel aging and characterize it as a secondary aroma. Likewise, if you perceive dried-fruit aromas of figs or prunes, you might conclude that those tertiary aromas indicate the wine had considerable bottle age. Yet the aromas of coconut and dried fruit that we typically associate with secondary and tertiary development can also be found in must and young wine. In a July 2023 study by Alexandre Pons, a research scientist at the University of Bordeaux and Seguin Moreau France, the compounds responsible for those aromas in must and young red wines were identified as furaneol and homofuraneol. The concentration of these compounds as well as that of γ-nonalactone, which is reminiscent of coconut and cooked peach, depends on vintage conditions and the amount of sunlight grapes receive during ripening, with the highest levels of γ-nonalactone being found in Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. When grapevines are stressed by heat or by Uncinula necator, a fungus …